This photo is the only one I have for y'all right now. It is of me on the top of The Cape of Good Hope before the baboons. I looked so innocent then. I know I should turn it the right was but it won't let me. (Oh, David, give me the answer when you read this. And I met someone in Kigali who went to Oberlin with you. This world is waay too small.)
I am now in Kigali, Rwanda after a harrowing journey which included a night spent in Johannesburg and the loss of my luggage. (It was retrieved so fear not.) I do not want to get too much into Rwanda without first wrapping up South Africa.
We finished the house. Well, mainly. It has four walls and a roof. They are going to put in walls and paint it without us. For those wanting specifics on how we built the house, well, it is built with bricks that we put together with cement we make ourselves. We helped with all aspects. My personal favorite was breaking bricks with a hammer. I became quite good at it.
This morning I really missed waking up to build. I felt like any old tourist eating food and taking pictures.
We sight saw, had a going away party, the typical stuff. It is funny how it is all foggy after we finished the house. I thought I had so much to say but that was really the most important part. We finally tried to go out dancing. It was good attempt but the Armchair was a glorified frat bar with some decent drum and bass and The Yellow Rose was filled with old men who did buy us wine. At least we tried!
I finally went downtown and realized that I should've gone sooner! I was so glued to the areas that we went over and over. It started to feel like I lived in Cape Town and I was doing that thing you do when you live somewhere. You know, when you go to the same places over and over thinking you'll go to that other place one day and you never do.
Cape Town is so different from the rest of Africa. I felt it the minute I was there. I am not an expert but I have been asking people who travel all around and the main feeling is that is so Western. The haves and have nots are so severe even more than in places I've been in the States.
One example: There were power outages all over the city the last four days I was there. You would have power in the mornings for a few hours and then you would get it again for a few hours at night. The power companies have no idea what they are going to do which would be really comforting to me if I lived in Cape Town but that's a whole other story.
Anyway, the township we were working in, Massipumulele, would have no power all day until about 4 or so. This made using power tools difficult. We would have to use them for the little time the power worked. In the nicer (aka richer sections), the power truly was off for a couple of hours. You could drive to say Westlake, the swanky neighborhood where the US Embassy was and things would be working fine there. This is a small example of the power of a little cash and living in the right neighborhood but an example nonetheless.
People I've met here in Rwanda make jokes that Cape Town is "Africa light", a nice place for tourists to feel like they are coming to Africa and still have the comforts of home. It is pretty harsh but coming to Rwanda, I can see that and Kigali is a bustling city with a ton of foreigners living here. (There are a ton of NGOs here. A ton. A lot of foreign money is coming to Rwanda. Where were you ten years ago but I digress ...)
But back to the "Africa light" comment. If I did not build this house, my perception of Cape Town would have been really, really skewed. First of all I would think there were hardly any black people here. Secondly, I would think that with Aparteid over, folks were doing real, real well. Those things are obviously only partially true.
The poor here are really, really poor so in a lot of ways, there is nothing "light" about South Africa. Habitat for Humanity is building houses but there is a need for hundreds of thousands more in the townships. People are coming to Cape Town in droves with now money from all over Africa and there is no way to accomodate them. I chatted with the guys who sold me stuff in the markets and most of them were from Congo, Niger, etc. They said South Africa was where all the money was. (They were also marking up their crafts and calling things South African when I knew they were West African. I called them out and they laughed. They said most Americans did not know the difference.)
I am still processing the South African experience. Oh, the lights switched off and on. I think the power is starting to go here so I'll sign off. Kigali has been cool so far. So so different but that's another day.
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